Two years prior, after being inspired by a trip to the Alsace region of France, I released my quilt block Christmas Stocking PDF Pattern and shortly afterwards I released my Letter Quilt Blocks PDF Pattern. While in the process of designing the stocking, I wanted to make it easy for sewists to utilize the two patterns together because, well, how could you go wrong with a personalized letter block stocking? The measurements of each letter block fit perfectly within the front of the stocking and with a few pattern adjustments and added details, a really special heirloom piece can be achieved.
If you follow me on Instagram, you may have seen my recent Shop DÔEN #fsGardenBlouse hack with the gathered collar and extra frill on the sleeve. I love the feminine feel these small details add and wanted to incorporate this into my stocking hack which led me to a gathered cuff option.
I also love the traditional aspect of piping and a folded cuff look which led me to a tutorial offering various details, allowing you to customize your stocking to your hearts desire while possibly learning new techniques as you follow through with the process.
Before we begin, I would like to mention the alterations I made to both the Christmas Stocking and the Letter Block patterns below:
- I lengthened the STOCKING TOP piece and dropped the STOCKING BOTTOM piece so that the letter block would sit in the center of the stocking.
- I widened the side panel pieces of the letter blocks so that each letter would fit the exact width of the stocking front.
- I drafted 2 different cuff options for the stocking; a folded cuff and a gathered cuff.
- I added piping to outline the outer edges of the stocking and accentuate each cuff.
As for materials, I was craving combinations of prints and solids in deep burgundy, rose and off-white tones. I had a few solid linen fabrics in my stash and started with those as a base then began my hunt for complimentary prints. I came across Blackbird Fabrics' wide selection of block printed and yarn dyed fabrics and started playing around with a bunch in my shopping cart. The fabrics I ended up using for this project are as follows [from top to bottom in reference to the image above]: A solid off-white 5.5 oz linen from my stash, a striped handwoven cotton in pecan, a striped hemp + organic cotton chambray in ivory, a plaid cotton in sequoia [by Fableism Supply Co], a block printed cotton batiste in cappuccino/fawn, a formation cotton in dusk [by Fableism Supply Co], and a solid burgundy 5.5 oz linen from my stash.
Other materials that I used for this project are as follows:
- A quilting cotton in ivory for the lining of the stockings which I sourced from my local fabric shop.
- A needle punched natural cotton batting which I sourced from my local fabric shop. NOTE: Batting is optional, but highly recommended if you would like to add more structure and support to fabrics that are lighter in weight.
- A light weight cotton interfacing to add more structure to the folded cuff.
- A 3 mm cotton piping cord which I sourced from my local fabric shop.
The Process
To start, I lengthened the STOCKING TOP piece by 2.5 inches [6.4 cm] and dropped the STOCKING BOTTOM piece by 2.5 inches. Keep in mind, both of these newly drafted pieces include your seam allowance. NOTE: At this point, no changes have been made to the STOCKING MAIN piece.
Next, I measured to find the center point along the top edge of the stocking on both the STOCKING TOP and STOCKING MAIN pieces, and marked an additional notch on each piece. NOTE: These notches will be used as a reference when aligning both the folded and gathered cuffs.
The only change that I made for the letter blocks are the side panels [piece A] of each block. With each letter block the 2 side panels need to be widened in order to fit the width of the stocking front. As illustrated above, there are 2 different width adjustment options available. The first option requires you to add 0.75 inches [1.9 cm] to each side panel which amounts to 2.25 inches [5.7 cm] in total. This option should be used for letters A, B, C, D, G, H, I, K, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, U, V, W, X, Y, and Z. The second option requires you to add 0.75 inches [1.9 cm] to each side panel which amounts to 2.5 inches [6.4 cm] in total. This option should be used for letters E, F, J, L & T. NOTE: These adjustments include all seam allowances which are 0.25 inches [6 mm].
Once I completed the pattern alterations noted above, I followed the instructions from the
Letter Block PDF Pattern to cut, sew and press the letter blocks.
NOTE: Keep in mind, I made the proper adjustments to the side panels [piece A] of each letter block [as noted above].
Once the letter blocks were pressed, I then followed the instructions on pages 29 and 30 of the
Christmas Stocking PDF Pattern to assemble the front stocking and attach the batting on both the front and back stocking.
NOTE: Keep in mind, I used my newly drafted STOCKING TOP and STOCKING BOTTOM pieces when assembling the front stocking [as noted above].
To make my own piping, I first cut bias strips of solid linen fabric measuring 1 inch [2.5 cm] in width. NOTE: This width covers the piping cord that is 3 mm in diameter and allows for 0.25 inch [6 mm] seam allowance. Next, I measured the perimeter of the stocking [excluding the top edge] and cut the piping cord according to this measurement, allowing a few extra inches as a precaution.
Once the bias strips and piping cord were cut, I joined the bias strips together, trimmed the excess seam allowance and pressed each seam [as shown in the images above].
I wrapped the bias strip around the piping cord and with wrong sides together, staystitched the edges of bias tape together a little less than 0.25 inch [6 mm] away from the edges. NOTES: There is no need to back stitch at the ends of your stitch line as you will need to unpick a few stitches on both ends anyways. Also, I switched over to a zipper foot to prepare and assemble my piping to the stocking.
To finish the first end of the piping, I unpicked approximately 1 inch [2.5 cm] worth of stitches, folded the bias tape down so that 1 inch of piping was exposed, and cut 0.5 inch [1.2 cm] from the piping cord. I then folded the raw end of the bias tape inwards at 0.25 inch [6 mm] seam allowance and folded the bias tape in half [lengthwise] so that the piping was encased.
Once the piping was encased, I aligned the piping end so that it was approximately 0.5 inch [1.2 cm] below the top edge of the stocking and began to staystitch the piping around the perimeter of the stocking using a little less than 0.25 inch [6 mm] seam allowance.
To complete the second end of the piping, I followed the same steps of unpicking the bias tape, cutting the piping cord and encasing the piping. I then staystitched this end of the piping to the stocking edge.
Once the piping was finished and secure, with right sides together, I aligned the front stocking with the back stocking and stitched around the entire perimeter of the stocking, while excluding the top edge. NOTE: To create a tight finish with the piping, I found creasing the fabric along the edge of the piping as I stitched to be helpful. You want to get as close to the piping as possible with your stitch line.
FOLDED CUFF PROCESS
To draft the folded cuff, I began with the STOCKING MAIN piece as a base and measured 3.75 inches down from the top of the stocking and drew a parallel line [as illustrated above]. Next, I drew in my 0.25 inch [6 mm] seam allowances on either side of the STOCKING MAIN piece and cut along all newly drawn lines [as illustrated above].
Next, I measured the distance on my new FOLDED CUFF piece from the center notch to the right edge [as shown in first illustration] and widened my piece using this measurement of 3.75 inches [9.5 cm] on both sides.
Once I extended my piece, I cut along the original edges [as shown in the second illustration]. NOTE: I used the slash and spread method to add more width to the bottom of the cuff so that the stocking would fit more comfortably within the cuff.
Once my cuts had been made, I secured the middle portion of the FOLDED CUFF piece and pivoted the outer pieces from the top so that there was a gap measuring approximately 3/8 inch [1 cm] on both sides. I then secured the outer pieces and added 0.25 inch [6 mm] seam allowance to both sides. Next, I smoothed out the top and bottom edges by redrawing these lines using a french curve.
To prepare the rest of my stocking pieces, I cut 2 FOLDED CUFF pieces [1 in my self fabric and 1 in my contrast [solid linen] fabric] and fused just the top [self fabric] piece. I then measured the length of the bottom edge of the cuff and cut my bias tape and piping cord according to this measurement, allowing a few extra inches as a precaution. For the stocking loop, I used my self fabric and cut a rectangular piece that was 1.5 inch [3.8 cm] x 5 inch [12.7 cm] in size.
With right sides together I stitched each cuff to form back seams at 0.25 inch [6 mm] seam allowance. I then prepared the piping by wrapping the bias strip around the piping cord and with wrong sides together, staystitched the edges of bias strip together a little less than 0.25 inch [6 mm] away from the edges. NOTE: There is no need to back stitch at the ends of your stitch line as you will need to unpick a few stitches on both ends anyways.
To assemble the piping to the cuff, I aligned one end of the piping at the back bottom edge of the cuff piece [in self fabric]. Then, approximately 1 inch [2.5 cm] away from the piping end, I began to staystitch the piping around the cuff using a little less than 0.25 inch [6 mm] seam allowance. NOTE: You want to avoid your cuff seam and piping seam from overlapping as this could create too much bulk. I positioned my piping approximately 1 inch [2.5 cm] away from the back cuff seam. To complete, I ended the stitch line so that 1 inch of the piping was left unstitched to the cuff and trimmed the excess piping.
To neatly join the piping ends, I unpicked approximately 1 inch [2.5 cm] worth of stitches from both ends of the piping and folded the bias tape down so that 1 inch of piping was exposed.
I then aligned both ends of the piping cord and cut so that they were flush [as shown in image above]. Next, I folded one raw end of bias tape inwards at 0.25 inch [6 mm] seam allowance, inserted the other unfolded raw end of bias tape on top and folded the bias tape in half [lengthwise] so that the piping was encased.
Once the piping was encase, I staystitched the loose piping to the cuff and trimmed any excess seam allowance so that it was flush with the rest of the seam allowance.
To complete the cuff, with right sides together, I aligned the seam of the top cuff [in self fabric] with the seam of the bottom cuff [in contrast fabric] and stitched around the entire bottom edge of the cuff at 0.25 inch [6 mm]. NOTE: To create a tight finish with the piping, I found creasing the fabric along the edge of the piping as I stitched to be helpful. You want to get as close to the piping as possible with your stitch line.
I then turned the cuff pieces so that they were right side out and gave the cuff a good press. Next, with right sides together, I inserted the stocking into the cuff, aligned the back seam of the cuff with the back notch of the stocking and pinned in place.
Next, I folded the stocking loop in half and staystitched to the top left side of the stocking, making sure to align the center of the loop with the side seam of the stocking.
Once the outer stocking was fully prepared, I referred to pages 32 and 33 of the
Christmas Stocking PDF Pattern to prepare the lining and assemble it to the outer stocking.
Once the lining was assembled to the stocking, I unfolded the cuff upwards and away from the lining, finger pressed the seam allowance along the opening of the lining and edge stitched to close the opening [as shown in image above].
GATHERED CUFF PROCESS
To draft the gathered cuff piece, I measured the width of the MAIN STOCKING and doubled this measurement to account for the full opening of the stocking. I then multiplied this number by 2.5 as I prefer a well gathered cuff which amounted to 40 inches [102 cm]. To draft this pattern piece, I simply drew a rectangle that was 40 inches [102 cm] in width and 3.75 inches [9.5 cm] in height. NOTE: You could add and additional 0.5 inches to the height of this piece and your cuff will still rest nicely above your letter block.
Once I drafted the gathered cuff piece, I added a notch at the top center of the cuff. NOTES: This notch will be used a reference point when aligning the gathers with the stocking front. Also, this pattern piece includes all seam allowances; 0.25 inch [6 mm] for the top, 0.5 inch [1.2 cm] for each side and 0.25 inch [6 mm] for the bottom hem.
To begin sewing, I created a french seam for the back of the cuff. With wrong sides together, I aligned both ends of my rectangle and stitched at 0.25 inch [6 mm] seam allowance. I then trimmed 1/8 inch [3 mm] from the seam allowance, folded the fabric back onto itself so that right sides were together, finger pressed so that the seam was flat and stitched again at 0.25 inch [6 mm] seam allowance. To complete the back seam, I pressed the seam allowance to one side [not shown here].
To finish the hem of the cuff, I opted for a baby hem to avoid bulk. For the baby hem, I rolled the raw edge of fabric inwards with wrong sides together by 1/8 inch [3 mm], finger pressed, then rolled inwards again by 1/8 inch, finger pressed, and edge stitched 1/16 inch [1.5 mm] away from the top edge [as shown in image above]. NOTE: I found that finger pressing and sewing the baby hem in small sections to be easier than pressing and sewing the entire hem.
Once my cuff was prepared, I gathered my cuff. To gather, I first changed the stitch length on my sewing machine to the longest setting and stitched a little less than 0.25 inch [6 mm] around the entire top edge of the cuff, making sure to leave long thread tails at both ends. I then gathered the cuff by holding the thread tails at one end and gently pushing the fabric along the threads. Once there was an even amount of gathering throughout the cuff, I inserted the stocking into the cuff, aligning the back seam of the cuff to the back notch of the stocking and pinned in place. I then changed the stitch length on my sewing machine back to its regular setting and staystitched the cuff slightly less than 0.25 inch [6 mm] away from the stocking edge. To finish the assembly of the cuff, I removed my gathering threads.
Next, I prepared my piping by measuring the circumference of the stocking opening and cut my bias tape and piping cord according to this measurement, allowing a few extra inches as a precaution. I then wrapped the bias strip around the piping cord and with wrong sides together, staystitched the edges of bias strip together a little less than 0.25 inch [6 mm] away from the edges. NOTE: There is no need to back stitch at the ends of your stitch line as you will need to unpick a few stitches on both ends anyways.
I then staystitched the piping to the top of the stocking at 0.25 inch [6 mm] seam allowance. NOTE: To assemble the piping to the top of the stocking, please see notes above for the folded cuff as they are similar.
Once the piping was secure, I folded the stocking loop in half and staystitched to the top left side of the stocking, making sure to align the center of the loop with the side seam of the stocking.
Once the outer stocking was fully prepared, I referred to pages 32 and 33 of the Christmas Stocking PDF Pattern to prepare the lining and assemble it to the outer stocking.
Once the lining was assembled to the stocking, I moved the gathered cuff upwards and away from the lining, finger pressed the seam allowance along the opening of the lining and edge stitched to close the opening [as shown in image above].
THE REVEAL
To say that I am pleased with how these stockings turned out is truly an understatement. The fabric combinations along with the added details of the personalized letter blocks, the contrast piping, the traditional folded and very pretty gathered cuffs all worked so well together. We now own a beautiful collection of heirloom handmade stockings that our family will cherish for a long while.
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